shihtzu2009

The Shih Tzu’s coat for the show rings requires extra care.  Some show people actually keep their Shih Tzu confined and caged to preserve the coat, or they wrap the coat or oil it.  Those who do keep their show Shih Tzu confined and caged pay a price in loss of muscle tone in their dogs.  Not all show people practice these methods for preserving their Shih Tzu’s long show dog coats.  It is also a myth that all show people do not allow their show Shih Tzu to go for long walks, to play and just in general to lead a normal life.  For those who do allow their show Shih Tzu do lead a normal life keeping the coat glamorous requires a lot of extra effort, and much more grooming than for the pet Shih Tzu. 

Coconut oil is considered helpful as a means of preserving the coat of a show dog Shih Tzu.  If you do oil the show dog Shih Tzu coat you must remove the oil completely before each show.  If you do not remove all the oil the coat appear limp and feel wrong.  It can also be uncomfortable to be around a Shih Tzu that has been oiled.  There are good oils on the market, however, that do not have this effect on the coat and it may be worth trying them if the Shih Tzu’s coat seems to need it.  Wrapping the coat in tissue paper protects the Shih Tzu’s coat, but you lose some of the pleasure of seeing your dog in full coat with his hair flowing as he moves.  I do think this is a beautiful, beautiful sight of the show dog Shih Tzu.  The tissue wrapping sort of reminds me of the days when women ran around the house for house with their hair in curlers. 

Probably the best thing to do if you are just starting out taking care of your Shih Tzu show dog’s coat is to experiment with different methods of preserving the coat until you find what works best for your dog.  Much the same type of procedures a pet owner must go through, although a lot more intense and time consuming as the Shih Tzu show do requires so much more in the way of grooming. 

One thing is for certain if you start out with “bad hair” it is virtually impossible to make it good enough for the show ring.  When purchasing your show potential Shih Tzu it is wise to study the lines to find out which have good hair in their genes.  This way you can just continue to keep it looking good. 

The topknot and whiskers also need very special attention on the show dog Shih Tzu.  The white whiskers on a parti-colored Shih Tzu must be really, really white to look good.  It seems this is especially true for the black and white Shih Tzu.   

Some older methods of keeping the whiskers white was to wash them at least once a day with a solution of boracic powder, a teaspoon to a pint of water.  This mixture is wiped into the whiskers, being careful to get none in the eyes and then rinsed away.  One of the keys to keeping whiskers white is above all to dry them immediately and keep them dry.  An older method of drying them was to work in some fuller’s earth or talcum powder, brushing this out and repeating until the hair was absolutely dry.  If you allow the Shih Tzu to dry his own whiskers he will rub and rub until dry doing nothing but harm to the length of the coat.  Another problem you run into with all this washing is that the hair becomes dry and brittle.  You will need to dress the whiskers with a little coat conditioner from time to time. 

A method of preserving the hair of the topknot is to use several bands along the length of the hair to hold it to the back of the head.  You can also plait the hair to achieve the same purpose.  Use neither of these methods just before a show as both methods will cause kinks in the coat of which you do not want. 

It is always wise to review the rules of the American Kennel Club about the use of oils and conditioners on the coat of a show dog.  Any substance used to alter the natural color, texture or body of the coat is usually prohibited.

There is more than one area of the Shih Tzu that is considered in terms of “breeding to the AKC Shih Tzu Standard.  I have been on Shih Tzu Puppies for sale websites in which they will state:  “We breed to the AKC standard.”  We do not breed “imperial or teacup” Shih Tzu.  Our Shih Tzu weighs 9 to 16 pounds.  They do not weigh below the AKC standard of 9 pounds.  And they will go on to say:  “My goodness, why in this world would anyone want to steer away from the AKC Shih Tzu standard.”  If you take a quick look at the pictures of some of the Shih Tzu they are breeding from you will see rather quickly that most of them have excessive eye white (which shows very plainly in the picture).  Excessive eye white is not breeding Shih Tzu to the AKC standards.  There should be very little if almost no eye white at all showing on a perfect example of an AKC standard Shih Tzu.  You might have the right weight there, but if the rest of the standard is missing, “you are not breeding Shih Tzu to the AKC standard.” 

If you are truly breeding to the AKC standard you must also produce the Shih Tzu AKC standard in all other areas besides “weight.” 

The following is a description of all else you must include in your Shih Tzu breeding program while breeding for the AKC standard: 

General Appearance: 

• Sturdy
• Lively
• Alert
• Long Flowing Double Coat
• Compact, solid, carrying good weight and substance.

Size: 

• Height at withers is 9 to 10 ½ inches, but not less than 8 inches or more than 11 inches.
• Ideal weight of mature dogs 9 to 16 pounds
• Length between withers and root of tail is slightly longer than height at withers.
• Shih Tzu must never be so high stationed as to appear leggy or so low stationed as to appear dumpy or squatty.

Head: 

• Round
• Broad
• Wide between eyes
• The size of the head should be in balance with the overall size of dog being neither too large nor too small
• Fault:  Narrow head, close-set eyes
• Expression:  Warm, sweet, wide-eyes, friendly and trusting.
• Eyes:  Large, round, not prominent, place well apart, looking straight ahead.  Very Dark.  Lighter on liver pigmented dogs and blue pigmented dogs.  Fault:  Small, close-set or light eyes, excessive eye white.
• Ears:  Large, set slightly below crown of skull; heavily coated.
• Skull:  Domed.  Stop – There is a definite stop.
• Muzzle – Square, short, unwrinkled, with good cushioning, set no lower than bottom eye rim, never down turned.  Ideally no longer than 1 inch from tip of nose to stop, although length may vary slightly in relation to overall size of dog.  Front of muzzle should be flat, lower lip and chin not protruding and definitely never receding.  Fault:  Snippiness, lack of definite stop.
• Nose:  Nostrils are broad, wide and open.  Pigmentation:  Nose, lips, eye rims are black on all colors, except liver on liver pigmented dogs and blue on blue pigmented dogs.  Fault:  Pink on nose, lips or eye rims. 
• Bite:  Undershot.  Jaw is broad and wide.  A missing tooth or slightly misaligned teeth should not be too severely penalized.  Teeth and tongue should not show when mouth is closed.  Fault:  Overshot bite.
• Neck, topline, body:  Of utmost important is an overall well-balanced dog with no exaggerated features.
• Neck:  Well set-on flowing smoothly into shoulders; of sufficient length to permit natural high head carriage and in balance with height and length of dog.
• Topline:  Level. 
• Body:  Short-coupled and sturdy with no waist or tuck-up.  The Shih Tzu is slight longer than tall.  Fault:  Legginess. 
• Chest:  Broad and deep with good spring-of-rib, however, not barrel-chested.  Depth of ribcage should extend to just below elbow.  Distance from elbow to withers is a littler greater than from elbow to ground.
• Croup:  Flat
• Tail:  Set on high, heavily plumed, carried in curve well over back.  Too loose, too tight, too flat, or too low set a tail is undesirable and should be penalized to extent of deviation.
• Forequarters:  Shoulders:  Well-angulated, well laid-back, well laid-in, fitting smoothly into body.
• Legs:  Straight, well boned, muscular, set well-apart and under chest, with elbows set close to body.
• Pasterns:  Strong, perpendicular.
• Dewclaws:  May be removed.
• Feet:  Firm, well-added, point straight ahead.
• Hindquarters:  Angulation of hindquarters should be in balance with forequarters. 
• Legs:  Well-boned, muscular and straight when viewed from rear with well-bent stifles, not close set but in line with forequarters.
• Hocks:  Well let down, perpendicular.  Fault:  Hyperextension of hocks. 
• Dewclaws:  May be removed. 
• Feet:  Firm, well-padded, pointed straight head.
• Coat:  Luxurious, double-coated, dense, long, and flowing, slight wave permissible.  Hair on top of head is tied up.  Fault:  Sparse coat, single coat, curly coat.
• Trimming:  Feet, bottom of coat, and anus may be done for neatness and to facilitate movement.  Fault:  Excessive trimming.
• Color and Markings:  All are permissible and to be considered equally.
• Gait:  The Shih Tzu moves straight and must be shown at its own natural speed.  Smooth, flowing, effortless movement with good front reach and equally strong rear drive, level topline, naturally high head carriage, and tail carried in gentle curve over back.
• Temperament:  Outgoing, happy, affectionate, friendly and trusting towards all.

Next time you run upon a Shih Tzu salesperson or Shih Tzu website who tells you they are breeding to the AKC standard, because they have Shih Tzu who are not Teacups or Imperials and who are 9 to 16 pounds, check to see if all the above is true also.  If it is, then you can conclude they are breeding Shih Tzu to the AKC standard. 

If you find deviation from the above then you can conclude that Shih Tzu salesperson or website is not breeding to the AKC standard regardless of their “size of Shih Tzu being 9 to 16 pounds.”  People who breed to the AKC standard means they are producing Shih Tzu with all the above attributes, not just the right weight. 

Sources:  American Kennel Club Shih Tzu Breed Standard

If you have never gone to a Shih Tzu or any breed dog show you might wonder exactly what the judge will be doing. 

The judge will look into the mouth of the Shih Tzu or other dog breed to check for the correct number of teeth and the bite.  I mean after all, do you ever see a winning Miss
America with no front teeth?  The same holds true for Shih Tzu and other dog breeds in the show ring.  Missing teeth is a disqualification in many of the breeds. 

He will also check a male to be sure he has two testicles.  A missing testicle is a disqualification. 

During this inspection the judge will feel various parts of the Shih Tzu or other breed of dog, searching out the angles of the shoulders and hips, the head and ribs.  This is especially true with the heavily-coated breeds like the Shih Tzu.  You can’t tell exactly what the structure of a heavily-coated Shih Tzu is without hands-on examinations.  Some of the smaller breeds are examined on a raised table.  If you see a handler lift the Shih Tzu or other dog breed from the table to the ground with one hand under the chin and the other hand using the tail, they do this to avoid messing up the Shih Tzu’s hairstyle.  It is not uncomfortable for the dog at all. 

The hands-on examination tells the judge a lot about the Shih Tzu or other dog breed, however, seeing the Shih Tzu move tells him even more.  This is called “gaiting.”  The judge will determine how the Shih Tzu move around the ring, whether it be all together or one at a time, up and down or around and around.  There are a lot of variations in how the judge performs the gaiting.  The judge wants to see the Shih Tzu move from the rear, from the front and from the side.  The judge has an experienced eye and seeing different views of the Shih Tzu in motion reveals different things. 

In the AKC and UKC rings, all Shih Tzu or dog breeds are shown at a trot.  In
England and some other countries dogs and the Shih Tzu are often walked around the ring.  There are many different handler “styles” when gaiting a Shih Tzu show dog. 

After examining and moving all the Shih Tzu, the judge might just point to the winners, or he might place the winning Shih Tzu at the front of the line and have them all go around the ring one more time before pointing to the winning Shih Tzu. 

How does the judge make a decision?  He considers how closely each Shih Tzu comes to its own breed standard.  There are many, many aspects to the Shih Tzu breed standard in which the Shih Tzu must pass in order to win in the show ring. 

When you first start going to shows try to consider them as an exploration of new activities.  Think more about how you feel about the sport in general.  Notate the sport’s good and bad aspects and not so much about your hopes to win once you get into the ring.  The absolute best part about Shih Tzu dog shows is doing something with your Shih Tzu.

The standard coat of a Shih Tzu should be luxuriously long and dense with a good wooly undercoat.  The hair on top of the head may be tied up.   When a Shih Tzu is completely brushed and combed the Shih Tzu should have a sleek look.  The beard comes to a point and a long, luxuriant moustache flows over the beard. 

Method of making a Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy topknot:

1. Part the hair from the ear on both sides of the head.
2. Gather up in one hand the hair in the middle and slip on a latex band at the base.
3. The band may have to be wrapped around twice to make it secure.
4. A ribbon or barrette is recommended to be attached to latex band.

How to make your own Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy bows:

1. Cut one yard of ribbon.  The ribbon can be any width you desire.
2. From this yard of ribbon, cut another piece about 5” long.  Splice this in half lengthwise.
3. Cut the remainder of the yard in half.  This material should give you enough for two ribbons or bows.
4. Wrap one of the long pieces around two fingers.  Slip the folded ribbon off your fingers and double it over.
5. With a utility scissors, snip off a piece at the corners in a “V” shape, but not a sharp V, for you will lose any thread of support.  There should be a piece of ribbon left at the centerfold to hold it all together.
6. Take one of the spliced pieces (5”) and tie the ribbon at the centerfold securely.
7. Separate each fold by gently pulling out and twisting each fold out from the center.  Do both sides.  When all the folds are pulled out and twisted, the bow is completed.  All that remains is to fasten the bow to a tuft of hair, using the ends of the center splice to tie the knot.  Cut off any excess ribbon that remains.

Care of the Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy’s ears:Because of the long hair covering the Shih Tzu puppy’s ears, problems can develop when the ear gets little air.  Clean the excess hair out of your Shih Tzu puppy’s ear canal (not the ear flap) to improve air circulation and help prevent infection. 

Care of the Shih Tzu’s eyes:Shih Tzu generally has large eyes with shallow sockets. A Shih Tzu’s eyes are more prone to injury than most other breeds.  If your Shih Tzu puppy’s eyes are red or cloudy or tear excessively, or if your dog squints and rubs at his eye, have a vet look at your Shih Tzu puppy’s eye to determine the cause.   

Professionalism in Shih Tzu grooming:The word professional means “one skilled in a profession, craft, or art.  The word professionalism is defined as “the methods, manner, or spirit of a profession. 

To become professional at anything, one must have the skills appropriate to the art, craft or profession and must conduct themselves professionally.

Ear Cleaning:Cleaning the ears of your Shih Tzu is a simple chore.   With the Shih Tzu being a long-haired breed, problems can arise if neither ears nor cleaned regularly.  The hair in the ears of a Shih Tzu will grow long, knot up, mat and eventually interfere with proper functioning of the Shih Tzu’s ear canal.  Infection of your Shih Tzu’s ears can result. 

You will need a bottle or can of ear powder easily obtained through pet supply manufacturers.  Squirt the powder directly into the ears of your Shih Tzu.  The hair will become dry and brittle and is easily plucked out with your fingers.  Pluck the hair out of your Shih Tzu’s ears with a quick, firm motion until the ears of your Shih Tzu look clean.  You can also use a hemostat to pluck the hair out of your Shih Tzu’s ears. 

Be sure to purchase ear canker powder as it has the additional benefit of helping to control canker and ear mites in your Shih Tzu.  Swab your Shih Tzu’s ears gently with a cotton swab dipped in mineral oil or rubbing alcohol. 

Nail trimming:Keeping your Shih Tzu’s nail trimmed is important.  Without regular trimming, your Shih Tzu’s nails may grow so long that they actually throw the Shih Tzu off his natural balance and act as a source of irritation.  Neglecting to trim your Shih Tzu’s nails also detracts from the look of an otherwise well-groomed Shih Tzu. 

Nail trimmers and techniques:Guillotine type nail trimmers are the best to use on your Shih Tzu.  Hold the trimmers vertically.  Grasp the feet of the Shih Tzu firmly, holds the leg up towards you, and carefully trim each nail of your Shih Tzu.  It may sometimes be unnecessary to trim the nails on the hind feet of your Shih Tzu as they seem to grow much slower than the fore feet.  If dewclaws are present on your Shih Tzu, trim the dewclaws as well.  The shorter you keep your Shih Tzu’s nail, the better, and frequent trimming will help tighten the feet and improve the dog’s balance.  Be careful about the “quick.”  The “quick” is a vein that can be easily observed in most white and light-colored Shih Tzu when the toenails are “white.”  The “quick” is more difficult to identify in toenails of darker colored Shih Tzu.  More often that not, these are black rather than white in the darker colored Shih Tzu. 

Nail bleeding:If the nails of your Shih Tzu bleed after trimming, or if you trim them to close to the “quick,” there is no need for alarm.  It is a good idea to keep antiseptic coagulants.  These substances will stop quickly any bleeding.  Using a cotton swab dab a little of the powder on the bleeding toenail of your Shih Tzu and hold it with a little pressure for a few seconds.  The bleeding should stop quickly. 

The best time to trim the nails or clean the ears is before you bath your Shih Tzu so that all traces of blood or powder will be washed away.  However, the nails of your Shih Tzu will be softer right after bathing. 

Nail grinding:A finishing touch in trimming nails is the use of a nail grinder for your Shih Tzu.  A nail grinder will polish off the rough edges of the Shih Tzu’s nails.  The Oster Corporation makes a nail grinder favored by many professional groomers and handlers.  Caution is advised when using a nail grinder on your Shih Tzu’s nails.  If the Shih Tzu bends his head during the process, some part of the fringes could get caught in the grinding wheel causing the Shih Tzu considerable pain. 

If your Shih Tzu objects strenuously to nail grinding, it is advisable to not force the issue since grinding is mostly for a cosmetic effect.

Brushing and combing out the Shih Tzu coat of hair is the most laborious and time-consuming chore in Shih Tzu dog grooming.  Knowledge of some “tricks of the trade” will help cut down on this labor time, especially so in cases of badly matted Shih Tzu coats.  The longer the coat of your Shih Tzu, the greater the potential for matting. 

If your Shih Tzu’s coat is very badly matted and tangled there is no alternative but to strip the coat of your Shih Tzu.  Stripping the coat of your Shih Tzu means to remove the entire coat with clippers fitted with a fine blade, right down to the skin.  If the coat of your Shih Tzu requires stripping, obviously, there is no need for brushing and combing. 

Coat conditioner:If your Shih Tzu’s coat is not so bad, does not require stripping and can be saved, but still bad enough to require considerable brushing and combing, you can saturate the Shih Tzu’s coat with an oil-based coat condition to loosen the knots and tangles and ease the brushing chore.  Coat conditioners that contain an oil base are beneficial for both the coat and skin.  Mink oil is probably about the best Shih Tzu coat conditioner on the market and especially for a matted Shih Tzu coat.  There are other methods professional groomers and handlers use for dealing with matted Shih Tzu coats.  This becomes a matter of personal preference between you and your Shih Tzu. 

Universal brush:The Universal brush is a German import and is convex-shaped with fairly long, hard, wire bristles.  Its shape and density enable it to pull out the dead hairs of your Shih Tzu more efficiently than any other brush.  Unfortunately, it will also pull out the live hairs of your Shih Tzu’s coat and therefore should never be used for a show coat of a Shih Tzu. 

Oster mat comb:The “Oster mat comb is a major product that cuts down on grooming time of your Shih Tzu.  The comb is specially designed to cut through knots and tangles and much less time is spent in brushing and combing your Shih Tzu. 

The Oster mat comb is used in the following manner:Grasp the mat comb firmly with thumb resting on the thumb rest and the other fingers around the wooden handle.  Place the mat comb directly behind the mat with the teeth flat against the skin.  Pull the mat comb forward towards you.  If the Shih Tzu coat is heavily matted, try pulling the comb through the Shih Tzu coat with short vertical strokes that should result in slicing the big mat into several smaller ones.  Continue the process until you can comb through the coat of your Shih Tzu without catching. 

Use your soft wire slicker or Universal brush to brush out all the remaining small mats and comb through the Shih Tzu coat once again, until the comb runs through the Shih Tzu coat smoothly. 

Brushes and combs:The brush you use to brush your Shih Tzu is most important.  A soft wire slicker brush is a happy medium between the too-soft brushes used for Shih Tzu show dogs and the too-harsh slicker brushes sold in most pet stores. 

The Universal brush or a fairly large slicker brush with hard fibers is used in cases of badly matted Shih Tzu coats.  This type of brush is harsher than the normal slicker and may take our more hair than desired. 

The comb of choice for general Shih Tzu use consists of half fine and half coarse teeth and does not have a handle.  The best of these types of combs were formerly manufactured in
Belgium but American companies now make equally fine combs.  The comb can be used for roughing out to finishing touches of your Shih Tzu’s coat. 

The mat comb is a companion to the Universal brush for coping with badly matted Shih Tzu coats.  The mat comb is heavier with wider-spaced teeth and is not to be confused with the Oster mat comb, which is a tool especially for dealing with very badly matted Shih Tzu coats.

These five steps are the fundamentals of Shih Tzu and any dog breed grooming procedure is:   

1. Brushing and Combing
2. Bathing
3. Blow Drying
4. Ear Cleaning
5. Nail Trimming

The Shih Tzu is typical of a longhaired breed requiring constant coat care and most frequently require services of a professional groomer. 

Brushing and combing melody:Brushing out the coat of a Shih Tzu is the most important step in Shih Tzu dog grooming.  The importance of regular Shih Tzu brushing is underscored by the fact that a Shih Tzu can be made presentable by brushing alone.  Brushing your Shih Tzu is the foundation for all that follows and more time and effort should be devoted to it.  The main ingredient to brushing the coat of a Shih Tzu is “manual labor.”  Thorough Shih Tzu brushing is mandatory before bathing since wetting a tangled, matted coat will only cause the coat to tangle and mat more.  Combing out the Shih Tzu coat is a close second step to brushing.  Combing the Shih Tzu coat should be considered an accompaniment to brushing, thus creating a melody of brush and comb, brush and comb, brush and comb the beautiful coat of your Shih Tzu. 

Brushing and combing techniques:The approach to your Shih Tzu consists of starting each step from the hindquarters.  The theory behind this approach is if the Shih Tzu cannot see what you are doing, he will be less likely to object.  Staring from the hindquarters proceed to groom the Shih Tzu systematically, part by part, step by step. 

The actual technique of correct Shih Tzu coat brushing and combing is to first grasp the left rear leg of your Shih Tzu and while holding part of the hair in one hand brush the other part.  To get to the undersides of your Shih Tzu’s leg, lift the leg of your Shih Tzu up and while holding firmly with one hand, brush the undersides. 

Lay down your brush and pick up your comb.  The main function of the comb is to find and remove tangles, mats or knots left in the Shih Tzu coat after brushing.  Run the comb through the leg coat you just brushed out.  If you find a knot in the Shih Tzu’s leg coat, hold the bottom part of the knot firmly with one hand and comb or tease out the knot with the other.  

When you are finished brushing and combing both hind legs of your Shih Tzu, do exactly the same with the two front legs of your Shih Tzu.  When all four legs of your Shih Tzu are done, go back to the hindquarters of your Shih Tzu.  This time, you will concentrate on the tail of your Shih Tzu.  Proceed to do the entire body coat of your Shih Tzu, first left side, then right side, then underside, then the front or chest areas of your Shih Tzu.  The most systematic way of brushing out the body coat of your Shih Tzu is from rear to front, layer by layer, lifting up with one hand a layer of Shih Tzu coat and brushing down to the skin with the brush hand. 

The final step is the head, including the ears.  The heavy furnishings on the head of your Shih Tzu are part of their beauty.  No effort should be spared in thoroughly brushing and combing this area of your Shih Tzu.  You now have the face of your Shih Tzu to do.  Once you have mastered the technique of the brushing and combing melody, no area of your Shih Tzu should present a problem.  Combing your Shih Tzu is always the final, finishing touch.

 The proper use of clippers and scissoring skill are the major elements in Shih Tzu grooming. 

Probably the best known quality clipper in the world is the Oster clipper.  Models most used by professional Shih Tzu groomers are the A5 and A2.  The difference between them is that the A5 has detachable blades while the A2 has a detachable head.  The A5 is probably used more by professional Shih Tzu groomers because of the ease with which the blades are interchanged. 

To become a serious and efficient Shih Tzu groomer it is well to study the blade chart since a familiarity with the whole range of blades is most beneficial long term.  There are 14 different blades that come in a variety of sizes, ranging from the #4 blade to the #40 blade.   The different sizes in blades will leave different lengths of coat.  Vets often used the #40 blade for surgical procedures.  I like using the #4 for the puppy cut look on a Shih Tzu.  The #10 blade provides a very close cut in the cases of extremely matted Shih Tzu. 

Snap-on combs were developed because manufacturers found it impractical to make a coarser blade than#4.  The #4 blade with the widest spaced teeth leaves on more Shih Tzu coat after clipping (5/8”) than any other blade. 

The size #1 snap-on comb can be snapped onto a #10 or #15 regular blade and leave a one-inch Shih Tzu coat.  Theoretically, no scissoring need be done on the body.  The coat of a Shih Tzu can be trimmed down to “puppy” length without scissoring. 

The object of the snap-on combs, when used correctly, is to reduce clipping and scissoring time of the Shih Tzu coat.  There is a specific technique for using the snap-on comb. 

Clipping technique:The clipper should be held in a certain position when clipping the coat of a Shih Tzu.  When held in the correct position, the clipper is held like a pencil.  The clipper should be held easily and lightly, yet firmly while clipping your Shih Tzu’s coat.  With the correct blade attached, the clipper can remove any Shih Tzu coat right down to the skin, or the Shih Tzu coat can be shaped and blended into almost any style desired. 

Oster A5 and A2 clippers can provide almost a lifetime of useful service for grooming your Shih Tzu providing proper care is taken of them.  Follow the maintenance instructions booklet that accompanies the clipper.  If followed carefully, the clipper should provide optimum service for grooming your Shih Tzu for many years. 

Scissoring:The most artistic aspect of Shih Tzu grooming lies in the scissoring work.  The perfecting finishing touches of your Shih Tzu’s coat can only be achieved through skillfully applied scissoring.  It is the scissor work, above all, which separates the real professional from the novice.  If one’s objection is top-quality, professional grooming for your Shih Tzu, it is essential to develop the scissoring technique to perfection.

Scissors are needed for Shih Tzu grooming.  The “barber type” with the sharp, straight edge is used for most scissoring.  The barber type scissors are used for cutting the hair of a Shih Tzu to the correct length for a fine finishing touch. 

A toenail clipper and a file are necessary for Shih Tzu grooming.  The average Shih Tzu owner will probably not want to buy all of the top-quality equipment that a professional Shih Tzu groomer would need.  You can improvise.  A steady table that is already available in your home can be used for the Shih Tzu grooming table.  You can glue a piece of skid-proof vinyl or rubber matting on the top of the table.  You can purchase a grooming post from a pet supply store or over the internet.  The table can also be placed against a wall and a rope attached to the wall with a hook to serve as a grooming post.  The rope can be tied loosely around the Shih Tzu to help keep the Shih Tzu under control.  If you decide to buy a professional grooming table, one with a 36” X 24” top is the best buy. 

If you are unable to install a bathtub with a platform to make the sides waist high so there would be a minimum of back bending, the next best thing would be to use or install a laundry tub.  For a single bath or one Shih Tzu in the household, the regular bathtub is sufficient. 

In the summertime, if you keep your Shih Tzu in a puppy cut, you could let the Shih Tzu air-dry outside after a good towel-drying.  In winter, brushing and using a dry bath powder can clean the Shih Tzu and give him a pleasant odor in between regular bathing.  Dry bath powder is also useful for daily cleaning of the face and feet of your Shih Tzu.  There are liquid versions available as well. 

For fluff drying and to get the result of a professional groomer you will need a floor dryer.  Otherwise a good hand held human blow dryer will be sufficient. 

A good lanolin-base shampoo that is biodegradable is best.  I truly have found the shampoos manufactured for HealthyPetNet to be of excellent quality for my Shih Tzu.  However, there are many other excellent brands of shampoo on the market.  A high quality shampoo will mix completely with water, will suds easily and rinse out easily leaving no residue in the Shih Tzu’s hair.  A good crème rinse is recommended after each bath. 

Generally, you can bathe your Shih Tzu weekly if you find a good quality shampoo and crème rinse that does not dry out the skin.  If the skin of your Shih Tzu becomes dry with weekly baths, try every other week.

If you don’t have good equipment there is no way you will have a well groomed Shih Tzu.  As with all jobs, proper tools are essential to doing a job well. 

Clippers 

One of the most important pieces of equipment is the clipper.  For a Shih Tzu owner grooming only one Shih Tzu, one of the best is Oster with snap-on blades.  The blades can be changed easily.  Various blades needed are No. 10, No. 7 and No. 4.  No. 10 will give you a complete shave down.  No. 7 blade will give you not so close of a cut as the No. 10.  No 4 blade will give you the stylish puppy cut that so many Shih Tzu pet owners like for their pet Shih Tzu. 

Combs 

You will need a fine-toothed comb and a medium-toothed comb.  You will also need a very tiny comb to comb the hair on the face.  Combs with metal handles are more durable. 

Brushes 

The brush is very important.  While the professional groomer who grooms all the breeds will need a variety of brushes, the Shih Tzu owner will need the proper brushes for a Shih Tzu.  A soft wire slicker brush is the best for fluff-drying.  It can be used to remove tangles from the Shih Tzu’s coat, but it must be used very gently.  The hard wire slicker is used to remove mats.  A pin brush is used for tidying the long hair of a Shih Tzu.  It cannot be used for “hard” brushing.  If your Shih Tzu’s hair is fine, you can use a natural-bristle brush made of boar bristles.  A vegetable brush or toothbrush can be used on all the places that are hard to get at, especially on the face, around and between the eyes of the Shih Tzu. 

Use a spray conditioner when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair.  The conditioner should have a lanolin base and should not contain alcohol.  Alcohol can discolor and dry out the hair of the Shih Tzu.  If you do not have the correct type on hand, use plain water in a spray bottle.  When you use coat conditioner or water when brushing your Shih Tzu’s hair, you will prevent static electricity and causing the hair to break.